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Androuet

Androuet

My son has an activity on Sunday mornings which means I’m regularly in the 17th at loose ends for around two and half hours. It’s a nice place to wander especially given the markets and cheese shops in the area. 

A couple weeks ago, skirting the northern border of Parc Monceau, I made my way to Villiers, which is pretty animated even on Sundays. I happened to google “fromageries” and realized I was around the corner from one of the many branches of Androuet. Naturally I went. 

Bigger than a breadbox, but not by much.

The shop felt impossibly small, especially with four members of staff preparing for the morning rush. I arrived at the perfect moment: nobody else was there and I had the chance to survey the entire selection. The seller who helped me, a younger woman, managed to offer some recommendations despite doing the initial “well, monsieur, it really depends on your tastes” dance. I walked out with three cheeses, one from each milk source.

A smoky nutty Claousou (top left), Tomme de Saulnois with a plum brandy-washed rind (top right), and a mild delicious Cône du Colombier

The dense tomme de Saulnois from the northeastern region of Lorraine had the texture of a Cantal and a lactic smell to it. I didn’t find out until researching it more thoroughly that it’s rind is washed with brandy made from mirabelles, which are delicious small yellow plums that my kids and I eat by the kilo in season.

For a goat cheese, my seller recommended the Cône du Colombier, which fit my taste well. Though visibly a chèvre, it didn’t have any of the trademark funky smell of goat. It was dense but not dry, slightly salty, and warmed my mouth.

The Claousou stole the show. This sheep’s cheese is made from raw milk and encircled with a thin band of wood from a spruce tree. It had the most delicious smoky nutty flavor and the silky texture. (Read more about it here.)

My visit to Androuet definitely lived up to expectations, even if I might have hoped for a bit more warmth from the staff. These were terrific cheeses. I’m sure I’ll find an excuse to spend more Sundays in the neighborhood!

I found a copy of Androuet's revered 1971 Guide du Fromage in the market across the street - a steal at 10 €!

The inside of Androuet's Guide du Fromage is filled with letters, explanations, recommendations, and illustrations.

Fromagerie Androuet, 23 Rue de la Terrasse, 75017 Paris

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